Earlier in the evening, when the bus from Kaza pulled in at Khibber (the second highest motorable village in the world nestled in Spiti Valley at about 14,000 ft.), the driver offered to help find me a place to stay for the night. But before he could proceed to tell me about his friend’s very comfortable homestay, I had jumped down the cluttered stairs with my backpack and shamelessly asked the woman with the egg crates and a green plastic cycle if I could stay with her for the night.